Gentle walk in the gardens of Provence - Hélène Darroze à Villa La Coste Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade - Buy Reservations
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😍 5/5 - Gentle walk in the gardens of Provence
By 👻 @Archi_Lectrice, 04/08/2024 3:00 am
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We knew the Château La Coste estate, its astonishing artistic journey signed by so many famous artists and architects, its Ando café and of course its wines. But for a special occasion, here we are at Hélène's restaurant, as they say here, on a beautiful Saturday afternoon in April. We would like to highlight the qualities of this place which fully corresponds to the experience that one can expect from a starred restaurant in a palace in the countryside. First of all, the setting, sober and soothing, but warm and personal. The main room placed on its pool and open to the landscape and the Provençal terrace seduced us with its simplicity, comfort of the seats, tablecloths and tableware both raw and refined. But the interior rooms near the fireplace in winter or the terrace in summer bordered by bowers are all suitable places depending on the time of year. When will we come back? Then, the welcome, elegant and empathetic as it should be in such an establishment, but never heavy or obsequious as in certain large houses. We know how to find the right distance here with respect but sympathy, warmth and kindness. The room manager perfectly orchestrates the ballet of the numerous servers and everyone is highlighted, row managers, diligent but already professional apprentices, kitchen staff in aprons. Bravo and thank you ladies and gentlemen! and thank you for the attention throughout the meal. Finally, the cuisine, plant-based and vegetable-based without being vegan, locavore and without loss as it should be today. It is up to the star, and some dishes are clearly on the level of two macaroons. In particular, we will keep fond memories of the association of beetroot with prawns and caviar, one of the best dishes tasted during our gastronomic wanderings. It is a refined cuisine, precise, complex without being complicated, feminine without a doubt. The vegetable in the center is not just a concept, and the meats, fish and shellfish find a very thoughtful harmony with each of them. We also appreciated the playful nature of certain preparations, in particular the start-up sequence, with the succession of appetizers (delicious asparagus with fingers so well thought out [the lemon one was remarkable]) or the search for original condiments from the palette of early fruits. Finally, the sweet part is up to par, with a remarkable pre-dessert on the theme of bread and a powerful chocolate composition without bitterness. Bravo to Hélène, but also to her executive chef and her cooks who put her inspiration into concrete projects every day for the happiness of the guests. Thank you also for all the delicious sides which delighted us from arrival to departure and which contributed to the well-being we felt. In all humility, and without in any way calling into question the exceptional quality/price ratio of the cuisine, we have one or two comments to make upon rereading, so that tripadvisor readers have an objective opinion on our experience. A few minor points could be improved. First of all, access to the restaurant is not up to par with the rest. This almost hidden staircase between the room and the delivery access is not really successful and I don't know what people who have travel difficulties can do (go through the hotel?). Overall, the architect that I am is surprised at the lack of respect here for accessibility standards for establishments open to the public. Of course, the framework is even more refined, but these apply to everyone! Then, although the cellar book is splendid, it is almost inaccessible! That a young Romanée Conti comes close to having to spend a total of an A booklet is an option, but that the estate's wines - very pleasant indeed - are billed with a coef 6, that's a bit exaggerated. In short, come for the cuisine and keep your LDD to enjoy great wines in a more reasonably priced setting! It is all the more surprising since the price of the menus is much more fairly priced (if you do not subscribe to the supplements which add up very or even too quickly. One of the dishes, certainly based on fresh morels and a slice of exceptional beef is subject to a supplement varying between 2/3 and half of the price of the basic menu...) Furthermore, if the quantities suited us perfectly, it should be noted that the portions remain light (especially the fish or squab) and that a big eater or at least a good appetite could remain hungry. (This was not our case!) Finally, if the room manager knows how to perfectly convey the genesis of the dishes, with precision and an always pleasant touch of humor, a visit from the chef would only be fair and would have allowed us to congratulate him (her?) without taking anything away. to the genius of Hélène who cannot be everywhere! We particularly appreciate this foray into the dining room at the end of the meal, and we missed it here. Thank you again for all the attention up to the autographed Polaroid, a souvenir of the celebrated event. All our congratulations and our best wishes for continued success at this very pretty table.
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