Elegant, creative but still traditional - Le Clarence Paris - Buy Reservations
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😍 5/5 - Elegant, creative but still traditional
By 👻 @simonburridge, 03/22/2022 3:00 am
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Le Clarence is everything you hope it will be. It's a wonderfully elegant and historic property in a central Parisian location. The front of house staff are as elegant as the interior décor and it feels a little like dining in a palace. The food is a surprising contrast of traditional and modern. Traditional in the choice of ingredients, the cheese trolley, many of the preparation styles. Modern in the 'chef's choice' tasting menu and some surprising concepts and techniques used.
Service was superb and spoken English was widespread and fluent, which helped me with my schoolboy French. Don't get me wrong though, despite the international clientele the restaurant attracts, its remains classically French and a perfect destination for those wishing to sample the high end of contemporary cooking in one of the centres of classical gastronomy.
Food intolerances were accommodated perfectly and achieved the level of technical skill we hope and dream of experiencing - honestly doubting that some of the dishes could be brought about without using gluten and dairy products. Rest assured, they were.
We also had some doubts that my partner's intolerances would limit our dinner to just the 3 course menu but it transpired to be 3 courses of 4 separate dishes and 4 hours later, we got into a taxi, delighted after a evening well spent, full of pleasures with a lot of pleasant surprises.
Without wishing to give the game away, the tasting started on an awkward note - a seared scallop with seaweed and torched orange. For me, it missed the mark - the initial orange-free taste felt like the bottom of a rock pool but was improved as the orange kicked in. Then onto the next preparations, and notably one with scallop and mushrooms, and my palate exploded - 4 stages of taste from a small dish with 5 of so components, each of them in perfect balance. This is pretty much the way it continued throughout the rest of the meal. Special mention must be made of the turbot collagen preparations (using all of the rare fish in a innovative and delicious way) and small clams in a broth which I'd pay serious money for the recipe. I dream of being able replicate it myself on a summer's evening with a crisp white and some crusty bread.
If I had any criticism, it was that good value wines seemed hard to locate in the exhaustive wine lists. That's not a surprise for a restaurant like this but it's still a shock when the bill has more relating to drinks than the food when it of this standard.
Overall, I'd be delighted to return and I'd recommend it without any reservations - Le Clarence deserves its long-standing accolades and offers a rare hybrid of classical and modern, all served in a very special location.
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