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😒 3/5 - Not Michelin class
By 👻 @Vierdank, 01/02/2022 3:00 am
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I'm extremely surprised by the very many praisings of this restaurant here on TA.
Is this an "The emperor's new clothes" effect?
My lack of praise is based on several things - smaller and bigger. And the price/performance is certainly a factor weighing in.
For a one star the prices for a la carte is mostly fair; however the starters are a bit high (from 37 and up). The main dishes ok in price with two exceptions: the turbot and the ris de veau topping 72 and 58 EUR. That's a lot of money for a dish and suggests "great expectations" in a price region where one usually find two star establishments.
The staff is kind, eager and young. And lecturing a learned rhyme, but their responses are non existent or disconcerted for "unprepared" questions - there gives no space to more intricate queries like the origin of the ingredients etc.
So, a bit unexperienced while they try to sound very experienced...
As dinner time peaks the eagerness of the staff turns into stress. They run around and the relaxed and somewhat dignified feeling you expect at an establishment of this kind is totally missing. They appear by the table for taking away plates which is not finished (main blunder) but are unattentive to fill up the glasses with the wine bottle that you're not permitted to have at your table.
If the wine is not set AT the table, very much attention must be payed for refilling. Else, you should not have this type of order.
Furthermore, we had a rather expensive bottle of white and the sommelier put it aside without a cooler! There it stood for twenty minutes and I had to ask him to fetch a cooler. It appeared ten minutes later (when the bottle was half full).
Nah... with a Michelin star on the front door this is quite appalling!
Now then, the food:
We chose from the carte and we chose the above mentioned high priced main dishes - just to challenge our really high expectations.
As starters we tried the fried fois gras and the crab dish (torteau).
The fois gras was fine, but not exceptional.
The crab was spectacularly presented and had interesting fireish flavour combinations, but actually the crab (or the lobster jelly, or both) "tasted fish" (in the lesser good sense), which it really should not do.
The 72 EUR turbot: good, but nothing exceptional justifying the price. The "nage iodée" was very hard to identify along with all the other ingredients.
The 58 EUR ris de veau: not good enough. Too many flavours competing on attention, A lot of sauces and paste of various kinds took the attention away from each other. Lack of firmer textures made the whole dish a more or less mushy experience.
This was also eminent in the mysterious "amuse" presented at the beginning of the meal. The list of ingredients read by the waiter was so long that not even a third could be remembered.
It turned out to be a chaos of tastes and mushiness.
It seems that the kitchen really doesn't know what the aim is. There is no concentration or clearness in what type of flavour they are searching for.
Obviously there is no trust in that the fine main ingredients can speak for themselves. Or at least with a carefully chosen selection of accompanying accessories...
After all this we had totally lost interest in having a dessert, so we bid farewell.
Le Sergent do have ambition, do use fine ingredients and do have obvious skill in the kitchen. But the setbacks mentioned above in combination with the occasionally upscaled pricing cannot lead to a top ranking from my point of view.
"Much ado about nothing" is unfair to say. But "much ado about very little" is unfortunately true...
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