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🙂 4/5 - Sushi Kaneyoshi, located in the basement of an office
By 👻 @Tyler S., 08/06/2023 3:00 am
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Sushi Kaneyoshi, located in the basement of an office building in Little Tokyo, Los Angeles, offers a secluded edomae-style sushi dining experience. As someone who frequently visits high-end sushi establishments in New York and Tokyo, I approached Kaneyoshi with high expectations based on local recommendations. While the value performance is undeniable, there are areas where consistency and the overall customer experience can be improved. Chef Yoshiyuki Inoue, originally from Yokohama, boasts an impressive resume with stints at Michelin-starred sushi restaurants in Los Angeles, including Sushi Ginza Onodera and Mori Sushi. At Kaneyoshi, he showcases traditional dishes, serving otsumami such as chawanmushi, seasonal sashimi, bozushi, and ankimo. The meal then transitions to a progression of nigiri, featuring hikarimono, shellfish, uni, maguro, futomaki, and negitoro. Standout dishes for me included the oyster somen noodles, nodoguro pressed sushi, aji and swordtip squid with elite scoring that enhanced both flavor and texture, and exceptional akamizuke. A highlight was the side-by-side sampling of shinko(!)/kohada and bafun/aka uni courses, which showcased the subtle differences in similar ingredients. Considering the breadth of the meal (19 courses with a total of 22 items), the price point of $300 per person offers remarkable value. However, certain operational decisions at the restaurant seemed to dilute the intimate connection often found between a sushi chef and his patrons. With 12 seats, it's a challenge for a single chef to cater to every diner. As a result, Sushi Kaneyoshi employs four chefs behind the counter: a head chef, a sous chef, and two assistants. While the dishes prepared by Yoshi-san were excellent, there was noticeable variation in the quality of courses prepared by other team members. For instance, the ama ebi and uni, which were placed atop sticky, loosely packed rice mounds by the sous chef, would have been better served as nigiri crafted by Yoshi-san himself. Additionally, the size of the counter led to a bustling atmosphere at times, with noise levels occasionally detracting from the ambiance. Overall, Sushi Kaneyoshi offers a robust lineup of traditional appetizers and nigiri, particularly when crafted by the skilled hands of Yoshi-san. While the value is strong at $300 for 19-22 courses, there remains room for refinement in the overall experience.
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