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😍 5/5 - Exclusive Ryōtei experience as genuine as it gets
By 👻 @LuxuryGipsy, 05/25/2023 3:00 am
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Sushi Noz, New York - Exclusive Ryōtei experience This is an extensive review for those who have a genuine appreciation of the Japanese finer things in life. My wife and I felt being transported to Japan where we lived for many years. We are big fans of Japanese history post Jomon period, the earthware or ceramics (Yakimono) and it’s culinary regional treasures. We arrived shortly before 6pm and one is immediately met in a genuine Japanese interior designed like an exclusive Ryōtei, a place which only accepts new customers by referral. We dined in the Hinoki room immediately to the left on arrival accommodating 8 people. The room is exactly as one would expect from an exclusive sushi restaurant in Japan. No ghastly refrigerated fish fridge on the counter. The theme is “discretion” and the entire experience is testimony to the Bushido concept incorporated in the art of Japanese sushi preparation. An impressive beverage menu with an extensive choice of wines and brilliant choice of sake and soju served by the bottle or by glass and carafe as customary in Japan. The sommelier is as professional as one would expect in such sophisticated venue. One does not go for a meal to sushi Noz, this is an experience and the entire performance is orchestrated in perfect harmony. Chef “Itamae” Nozomu Abe is assisted by TJ behind the counter and a team of chefs that perform off stage. The service team operates like covert agents better known as Ninja’s and their female version Kunoichi. They are omnipresent and ensure that the service is truly anticipated before the guest can express their wishes and desires. They are a true example to all who aspire a career in a service industry. I have attached our menu for the evening. The guests are enjoying, from the moment of arrival chef Abe’s techniques is the preparation of the meal. A part of a three foot piece of tuna belly is ceremoniously cut, the sushi rice is brought in from the kitchen and transposed onto a traditional sushi rice bowl known as “hangiri” and mixed with a secret concoction likely entailing rice vinegar, sugar and other secret ingredients.It is subsequently returned to the kitchen to re-appear once it’s sushi time. It’s kept moist and warm in a cheese cloth with a smaller hangiri. Chef Abe displays an iron discipline and surgical precision in the preparation of each dish that is being served to the eight guests at the counter. Knives are kept perfectly clean after each intervention and stored in a designated location. Despite the 15 courses for 8 people, at no moment is there a glimpse of chaos. The necessitating dishes, bowls and cups (120 pieces at least) appear inconspicuously on the counter in perfect sequence when the time is right. The dishes and bowls are traditional earthware from Japan, better known as Yakimono from a variety of locations in Japan, carefully selected by Chef Abe who besides his culinary talents enjoys music and the Japanese ceramics from various kilns in Japan. Also parading is some very fine bone China porcelain from both Japan and China. The sake cups and carafes come in a variety from glazed and non glazed Yakimono to beautifully cut and colored crystal. We started with a Dassai 23 Junmai Daiginjo sake from Asahi-Shuzo made with 23% polished Yamadanishiki rice, which offered an aromatic and fruity start to our journey, it was the sake that the late Prime Minister Abe offered to President Obama. Our first dish consisted of a sashimi selection of four parts of Silver Flounder, followed by Bonito sashimi. The marinated flounder liver was exceptional and easily comparable to foie gras. The bonito melted away in your mouth. A dish with finely cut baby scallops, fresh green peas, freshly grated fragrant wasabi and a mellow but fragrant dashi based sauce was the first composition served in a white and blue porcelain bowl. Guests were subsequently treated to Chef Abe who finely chopped a part of the firefly squid that were presented on a perfect circular display dish. A number of ingredients such as Shiso leave flowers was added and topped with one charcoal grilled small squid, all presented on an elegant Wabi-Sabi styled ceramic dish. The taste was divine, a ballet of the delicate flavor of this prestigious mollusks further enhanced with scallions and a soy based sauce. A grilled spot prawn was served on traditional Yakimono that tasted so sweet from its freshness that the chef’s decision to minimal intervention was much welcomed. Wild fresh French asparagus and caviar in a fine flavored broth presented in sublime bone China with relief border patterns likely from Arita and if not very much similar, was both delicate, fine and exquisite. A glazed piece of black cod was served on Yakimono with some finely sliced glazed lemon providing the delicate flavor of the black cod with the robust yet tender structure of this fine fish. The glazed sauce was balanced with finely sliced and simmered lemon. Meanwhile Chef Abe had finely cut the six different fish types for the sushi experience, ensuring the cuts were conform the practices of the legends and master sushi chefs also known as Taishos exercise. The sushi rice made its re-appearance. Chef Abe swiftly prepared the six different nigiri sushi pieces. Each piece was an artwork in which the crispness of the fish was perfectly married with the fresh, moist and warm sushi rice where required, complemented with freshly grated wasabi and a brush stroke of light soy where appropriate. The squid was tender, the pink snapper reminiscing of a journey over the ocean. The Pen shell clam ”Al Dente and yet silky smooth. Both the Shima Aji and Aji seasonal fresh and perfectly seasoned to preserve its signature refined aspects of what the Japanese call “Hikarimono” (silver skinned fish) distinct taste. The prestigious tuna was represented by Akamai or lean tuna and Chu Toro or medium fatty tuna of exceptional quality. Iwashi (sardine) was served in a roll format, garnished with miniature “Negi” and three other ingredients. The quintessential apotheosis of a sushi meal was represented with Uni from Hokkaido in a perfectly crisp seaweed sheet and the signature sushi rice from chef Abe. It was an exhilarating experience for both scent and palette. A small dish of silver flounder and sea urchin in which each of the seafood types was served in a different rice preparation culminating in a cold and warm risotto was outright spectacular. The last sushi was a fine Anago (sea eel) with its classic soy based sauce. Perhaps traditional but a favorite of many. The traditional miso soup was replaced with a fine shrimp and miso broth in an appropriately sized small wooden cup. As introduction to the conclusion of the meal was a small slice of “Tamago”. A traditional version refined towards cake. Not too sweet but not savory. Just a perfect balance to mark the transition. The chef concluded with slicing a beautiful red Miyazaki mango which was perfect in taste, aspects and structure. A true poetic and healthy conclusion. Lastly a black sugar jelly and rum cream sauce satisfied the sweet tooth with sublime elegance nicely complemented with the fragrant green tea. In conclusion, for those who appreciate Japanese culinary culture, this is not to be missed. Yes, there is a price tag involved but certainly cheaper than trying to find such experience in Japan. There are two rooms and my comments only relate to the room where chef Abe performed. I can and will not speculate on who orchestrated and performed in the other room. This review was not solicited.
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